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This
Map of Central Island and the Sunshine Coast contains
many links to our pages on Towns, Lakes, Rivers
and Parks. Click on a live area of the map to
link to the desired page.
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Central
Island
As you drive the Island Highway (Hwy 19), it's always
a treat to look across the Strait of Georgia at landmarks
on the mainland as spires of the Coast Mountains rise
on the eastern horizon. One such scenic view is the profile
of Howe Sound Crest as revealed when you look back towards
the city of Vancouver from Parksville. The farther north
you head towards Courtenay and Campbell river, however,
the more the peaks and glaciers of Vancouver Island's
ranges, principally the imposing Comox Glacier, Forbidden
Plateau, and Mount Washington, rise in the west and vie
for equal attention.
As the highway winds past well-kept farms, this is a serenely
rural part of the journey. Flowers abound in the gardens
that front many of the homes along the way. Small rivers
such as the Little
Qualicum and the Englishman,
as well as the mightier ones such as the Puntledge
and the Campbell,
empty into the strait. From the highway you catch glimpses
of quiet green forest settings on the banks that line
each river's course. Come late summer, these streams teem
with spawning salmon.
For much of the way between Courtenay
and Campbell River
the Island Highway runs beside Qualicum Bay, an area rich
in seafood. Pullouts beside the road give easy access
to the bay's sand and pebble beaches. At several places
you can buy fresh seafood, brought to the docks daily
from local waters.
The mountains and islands of central Vancouver Island
have a mysterious sense about them, as if they're always
trying to hide some secret. It's true: you do have to
travel farther afield here in order to penetrate its cloud-laced
valleys and coastal rain forest. Take your time as you
meander through this laid-back region. Its rhythms are
subtle, but with gentle probing they reveal themselves,
showing greater complexity than first meets the eye.
Getting There
The new Island Highway (Highway 19) has superseded
the old Island highway (Highway 19A) as the way to move
quickly between Nanaimo and Campbell River. Parksville,
37 km north of Nanaimo's Departure
Bay ferry, lies just east of the new Island Highway.
For those wishing to make time, the new four-lane route
is a blessing. For those wishing to take their time, this
will mean fewer cars tailgating along the scenic ocean
drive.
Highways 19 and 19A link Parksville with southern Vancouver
Island. Highway 4 links Parksville with Port Alberni,
and with Tofino and Ucluelet on the west side of the island.
Approaching from the north, Highway 19 links Campbell
River with the northern half of Vancouver Island. Campbell
River may also be reached by BC Ferries from Quathiaski
Cove on Quadra Island. Highway 28 originates from
Highway 19 just north of Campbell river, and leads west
for 92 km to Gold River.
Sunshine
Coast
The world's longest highway, the Pan-American (also
named Highway 101 in parts of the US and Canada), stretches
15,020 km from Castro on Chile's south coast to Lund
on BC's Sunshine Coast. The 139 km stretch of highway
101 between Langdale
and Lund outperforms its size. Dozens of parks with biking,
hiking and ski trails; canoe and kayak routes; beaches;
coastal viewpoints are easily reached from the highway.
Campsites are plentiful, and except in July and August
and on long weekends from May to September, you won't
have any difficulty in finding a place to pitch your tent
or park your RV.
The Sunshine Coast lives up to its name. With an annual
total of between 1,400 and 2,400 hours of sunshine - that's
an average of 4 to 6 hours per day, depending on where
the measurements are taken - bright days outnumber gloomy
ones by a wide margin. The Sunshine Coast benefits from
a rain shadow cast by the Vancouver Island Mountains,
which catch most of the moisture coming in off the Pacific.
In winter, clouds regroup in the Coast Mountains to the
east of the Sunshine Coast and provide sufficient precipitation
in the form of snow to coat trails for cross-country skiing.
The remainder of the year it falls as rain, British Columbia's
"liquid sunshine", which nourishes the temperate
rain forest.
The Sunshine Coast is split into two portions on either
side of the Jervis Inlet. Roughly speaking, the southern
half between the ferry slips at Langdale and Earl's cove
occupies the Sechelt Peninsula, while the northern half
between the ferry slip at Saltery Bay and Lund sits on
the Malaspina Peninsula. The coastline is deeply indented
by the Pacific Ocean at Howe Sound, Jervis Inlet, and
Desolation Sound. Jervis and Desolation are of such fjordic
proportions that they attract a steady stream of marine
traffic through the summer months, when brilliant sun
shines on the countless cataracts that cascade down the
sheer-sided slopes. Come moodier months, the clouds become
ensnared in the snaggle-toothed peaks, making you feel
just as pleased to stick to the sunnier coastline.
Getting There
The Sunshine Coast is accessible from the rest of
the Lower Mainland only by boat or floatplane. Travellers
aboard BC Ferries leave Horseshoe
Bay in West Vancouver for a 45-minute ride to Langdale
on the Sechelt Peninsula. Highway 101 links Langdale with
Earl's Cove, 80 km north. Another ferry crosses Jervis
Inlet to Saltery
Bay, a 60-minute ride. Highway 101 makes the second
leg of this journey 59 km north to Lund. BC Ferries also
connects Powell
River on the Malaspina Peninsula with Comox on the
east coast of central Vancouver Island.
A note about travel times: One of the most enjoyable aspects
of visiting the northern sunshine coast in the off-season
from September to May - particularly if you travel midweek
- is being able to catch the ferry both from Horseshoe
Bay to Langdale, and then from Earl's cove to Saltery
Bay, without experiencing interminable lineups. You'll
still have to allow six hours to reach the Malaspina Peninsula
from Horseshoe Bay, but you can do it without hurrying,
enjoying the travel time as much as the play time once
you arrive.
If you can't travel midweek to avoid the lines, at least
leave Vancouver early Friday afternoon or late Saturday
morning and return early on Monday. Those travelling up
the entire coast or returning via Vancouver Island should
ask at the Horseshoe Bay terminal for special fares (which
can save you up to 30%) for the circle tour (four ferry
rides). |
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