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As you explore from island to island, you'll find dozens
of small beaches along the convoluted shorelines. While
all shoreline is public land in British Columbia, not
all of it is easily reached, nor does much of it provide
a pleasant place to relax while watching the ebb and
flow of the tides. Here's a sampling of some of the
best and most readily accessible places in the southern
Gulf Islands.
One of the prettiest beaches on all the islands is at
Salt Spring Island's Ruckle Provincial Park.
A trail leads down to the secluded beach from the nearby
campground. It's easy to imagine generations of island
families making their way here on hot summer days when
the Ruckle farm was in full swing. A tall forest surmounts
the beach, much of it sturdy first-growth Douglas fir,
but there are also a number of hardwood species planted
by the Ruckles that are a delight come fall. This beach
is a wonderful refuge from the outside world, a place
to find a sturdy piece of driftwood for a backrest and
relax.
Drummond Park at the head of nearby Fulford Harbour
has a more exposed pebble beach to explore. Look for
the ancient pictograph image carved in the face of one
of the larger boulders on the beach. Although the wooded
setting at Weston Lake, about 2 miles (3 km)
north of Fulford Harbour, is less picturesque than by
the ocean, there is a sandy beach here where you can
enjoy a freshwater swim.
One of the best beaches on the Pender Islands
is at Mortimer Spit, close to the canal between
the two islands. A snout of sand where you'll find plenty
of room and few visitors to share the beach with juts
out into Navy Channel. A more popular spot is just north
at Hamilton Beach at Port Browning. You'll find
a more festive atmosphere here in summer with a pub,
marina, cafe, and picnic tables beside the beach. On
the far shore, visible from Hamilton, is a sandy strip
of beach at Razor Point. Take Bedwell Bay Road
south from the ferry dock at Otter Bay to reach Hamilton
Beach. Follow Razor Point Road east of Port Browning
to find the small beach on the point.
If you take the time to travel to the very end of South
Pender Island, you'll find the small beach park at Gowlland
Point Park, the prettiest of all the beaches on
the two Penders. A pebble beach slopes down to an indented
shoreline. During winter storms, which pound this exposed
coast with regularity, the ocean moves the cobblestones
around with percussive effect. From the beach, you look
due south into the San Juan Islands, west across the
Strait of Juan de Fuca to Hurricane Ridge on Washington
State's Olympic Peninsula and east to Saturna Island's
Monarch Head, with Mount Baker rising above the mainland.
To reach the park from the ferry dock, follow Bedwell
Bay, Canal, Spalding, and finally Gowlland Point Road
to its southern terminus. If you want solitude, this
is where to find it.
Much of the beach at Miners Bay on Mayne Island
is composed of a gently sloping shelf of smooth rock.
At low tide much of this table rock is revealed and
makes for interesting exploration. Miners Bay is the
commercial hub of Mayne Island and is anchored by the
historic Springwater Lodge. Make your way from the ferry
dock along Village Bay Road, an easy walk or bike ride.
A beautiful sand-and-pebble beach is located on Mayne
Island's east side at Campbell Bay. The trail
leading down to the beach is not well marked but isn't
difficult to locate. Follow Georgina Point Road east
of Miners Bay to its junction with Waugh Road. Head
south on Waugh, and as the road rounds Campbell Bay,
watch for a shady trail that runs down the embankment
to the ocean below. An overhanging forest shades the
beach, providing a cool place to relax out of the sun.
Big pieces of driftwood sit mired in the sand, ready
to prop you up to enjoy the view as you look due east
across the strait towards Vancouver.
Even though there are no public campgrounds on some
islands, there are attractive parks especially for picnickers,
located where you can take best advantage of the seaside
environment. Whether you're on the island just for the
day or have made arrangements for private overnight
accommodation, you'll want to head for these places
to complement your visit.
Every island is invested with magic. Those who visit
Hornby Island have really bought into the dream,
as it takes two ferries to reach. Once there, head for
the picnic grounds at Tribune Bay or Helliwell
Provincial Park. The latter sits on a headland forested
with a beautiful stand of old-growth Douglas fir. If
you arrive here in spring you'll be treated to a dazzling
wildflower display. The rewards of visiting later in
summer are the huckleberries and dark blue salal berries
that cloak the hillside above the beach. Tribune Bay
boasts eroded hoodoo formations and a sandy beach that
vies with any in the Gulf Islands as the most ideal
place to frolic and swim.
You'll get to tour Quadra Island on the way to
your picnic in Rebecca Spit Provincial Marine Park.
The park lies on the east side of the island at sheltered
Drew Harbour, almost 6 miles (9 km) from the ferry landing.
There are more picnic tables here than on any other
island, and a prettier sandy beach than almost anywhere
else on Quadra. Anglers launch from the ramp here, and
it's a good place to pick up word on the health of fish
stocks.
Cortes Island is blessed with both a provincial
campground at Smelt Bay and a sublime picnic and fishing
location at Mansons Landing Provincial Marine Park.
If they aren't biting in the saltchuk ('chuk' is a Native
word for water) just turn your attention to the fish
in Hague Lake, a freshwater lake located within the
park, a rarity in the provincial marine park system.
A wide, sandy beach beckons to those who just wish to
spread a blanket beside a driftwood backrest and dig
into the cooler.
For those who journey the length of Lasqueti Island,
there's picnicking and swimming at Squitty Bay Provincial
Marine Park, 9 miles (15 km) south of the ferry
dock at False Bay. You'll be ready to drink from the
freshwater pump by the time you arrive here. Picnic
tables are arrayed among the spray-shaped forest of
Douglas fir and strawberry arbutus (madrona). This idyllic
location overlooks two narrow coves where the water
is clear, green, and warm in summer months. A portion
of the park is fenced off to protect it from the feral
sheep that graze all over the island. Years ago, a small
meadow was cleared above the beach at Squitty Bay, where
there are still signs of a old orchard.
Without doubt, the best beaches in the entire inland
sea are found on Savary Island offshore from
Lund on the Sunshine Coast. Unfortunately, few visitors
travelling without a boat will get the opportunity to
stroll them. Savary is not serviced by public ferry
so transportation is limited to water taxi or airplane.
If you do have a boat, kayak, or canoe, the First or
Second Beaches on the island's north side are the easiest
to reach. It's debatable which side of the snout-shaped
island has the best beaches - when you're in heaven,
it doesn't matter which side of the street you walk
on.
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