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Totem
poles are wonderful examples of aboriginal art. The ancient
practice of totem carving has been handed down through
generations as a way of preserving the history of local
native heritage as well as honouring tribal rituals and
sacred spirits of people. There are many ways to experience
the rich culture and native heritage of British Columbia's
most fascinating people. For your own exploration of some
of the best totem poles and aboriginal art in British
Columbia, here are a few areas worth visiting.
Native
Heritage |
In
the heart of Vancouver, at Stanley
Park, a collection of Kwakiutl and Haida totem poles
represents styles from a few of the northwest Pacific
coast native traditions. The Museum of Anthropology at
the University of British Columbia, in Vancouver, holds
an impressive collection of Pacific Northwest aboriginal
artifacts, including a definitive collection of west coast
totem poles.
The Capilano Suspension Bridge and Park, in North
Vancouver, offers a thrilling adventure 70 metres
(230 feet) above the Capilano River. The park features
colourful totem poles beautifully maintained in their
original condition. In summer, watch First Nations artists
at work in the longhouse carving centre.
Travelling eastwards on Highway 7, the Xa:ytem Longhouse,
in Mission, is an Historic Site and
the first native spiritual site in Canada to be recognized
by both Provincial and Federal governments. Carbon-dated
at between 5,000 and 9,000 years old, the centrepiece
of the ancient village site is an enormous boulder dubbed
Xa:ytem, meaning 'the transformed one.' The Sto:lo Nation
has recently erected a longhouse at the site where, between
June to September, visitors can learn more about traditional
First Nations' culture and history. Each year in July,
the Mission Powwow, which represents a celebration of
the survival and adaptation of native culture, draws drummers,
singers and dancers to a three-day festival. Outsiders
may respectfully attend.
From
Prince George, drive west along Highway 16 to the
'Ksan Historical Village and Museum in Hazelton.
The museum, in one of the long houses, honours the Gitksan
ancestors, who were graced with such abundance that they
had time to beautify the items they carved for everyday
use. Seven decorated tribal houses fronted with several
totems stand silently on the banks of the Skeena and Bulkley
rivers. Further along is the Kitwanga
Fort National Historic Site.
This fort, known on maps and signs as Battle Hill, was
constructed on top of a glacial mound overlooking the
river. The most famous warrior to occupy this fort was
a man known as Nekt. His descendants continue to live
in the native villages of the area.
Detour
up Highway 37 to the small village of Kitwancool,
to see what are reputed to be the oldest and finest examples
of totem poles in British Columbia. The three poles mounted
together directly in front of the Gitanyow Band Council
office are among the most intricately designed ones of
the whole group, and demonstrate that the carving tradition
here is stronger than ever.
Totems
on Queen Charlotte Islands |
Take
a side trip Take a side trip to Nisga'a
Memorial Lava Beds Provincial Park, which has special
significance to native people. Two centuries ago T'aam
Baxhl Mihl Mountain erupted and destroyed two native villages,
along with an estimated 2,000 Nisga'a ancestors.
Board
a BC Ferry in Prince Rupert and cross the Hecate Strait
to the breathtaking Queen Charlotte Islands (Haida
Gwaii). They lie on the edge of the province's collective
memory like a dream scarce remembered, mythical and elusive,
full of meaning and beauty, yet incomprehensible to the
waking mind. Many visitors come to the islands to see
the abandoned villages on Moresby Island, accessible only
by boat. Anthony Island, home of the old Haida village
of Ninstints, is located within the boundaries of Gwaii
Haanas National Park Reserve, and is a World Heritage
Site.
Return
to Prince Rupert and visit the Museum of Northern
British Columbia, which houses an exceptional collection
of Tsimshian artifacts. Tsimshian people continue to live
in the area of Prince Rupert and on hundreds of offshore
islands. The Queen of the North ferry connects the community
of Prince Rupert with Port Hardy, at the northeastern
end of Vancouver Island. The magnificent 15-hour cruise
down the Inside
Passage leads through majestic fjords and a maze of
narrow channels. Snow and ice coat the peaks of the mountains,
and their shoulders plunge to the tideline. So rugged
is most of this coast that if you were exploring here
by kayak, you'd be challenged to find a welcoming landing
site. Keep your camera handy, and passengers should keep
their eyes peeled for a whale or dolphin in Queen Charlotte
Sound. With luck you might even see a white-coated Kermodei
bear on Princess Royal Island's lengthy shoreline.
Alert
Bay lies cradled in the arms of Cormorant Island,
easily accessible by a scenic ferry ride from Port
McNeill on Vancouver Island. Visit the U'mista Cultural
Centre to view elaborately carved cedar masks depicting
the Potlatch ceremony of the Kwakwaka'wakw People.
And memorial totem poles may be viewed from the road at
the native Namgis Burial Grounds.
Back
on Vancouver Island, follow Highway 19 to Campbell
River. The rich native heritage of Campbell River
is proudly displayed in the Campbell River Museum, which
features a fine display of contemporary native masks and
ceremonial items. Quadra Island, a ten-minute ferry
ride from Campbell River, is well worth thevisit. A "must
see" is their Kwagiulth Museum and Cultural Centre, which
showcases potlatch regalia, ceremonial masks, rattles,
and whistles.
Continue south to Nanaimo and Petroglyph
Park, to see 10,000-year-old stone carvings. Though
the exact meaning or purpose of petroglyphs has been lost
to time, the indelibly etched figures speak of the search
for harmony between humans and nature, between humans
and the divine. The local natives call it Kinomagewapkong,
meaning 'the rocks that teach.'
Thunderbird
Park in Victoria |
Duncan
calls itself 'The City of Totems' and features a selfguided
walking tour of 41 totem poles in downtown Duncan.
The
Duncan Heritage Centre recreates the history and traditions
of the coastal people in its buildings, displays and excellent
presentations. Under the roof of a large carving shed,
totem poles take shape, with visitors able to view work
in progress.
The
Royal British Columbia Museum located in the inner harbour
area of Victoria, presents a premier collection
of native artifacts. Outside the museum, protected from
the elements, stand some of the oldest totem poles and
greet figures ever collected and preserved. Totem poles
carved in the styles of aboriginal people throughout British
Columbia can be seen in Thunderbird Park, adjacent
to the Royal British Columbia Museum.
Finally, and to complete this circle tour of Native heritage
and culture, relax aboard a BC Ferry on the scenic cruise
back to Tsawwassen, south of Vancouver.
Towns on or near this Route Click on a town name
to learn more about that town.
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