There are two
large parks in Haida Gwaii, formerly called the Queen Charlotte Islands;
Naikoon Provincial Park on Graham Island in the north, and Gwaii Haanas
National Park on Moresby Island in the south. The third and only other
provincial park in Haida Gwaii, Pure Lake
Provincial Park between Masset and Port Clements, has no camping
facilities.
Graham Island
Naikoon Provincial Park gets its name
from a corruption of the Haida word 'Naikun' meaning long nose, which
was the Haida name for Rose Spit, one of the most prominent features
in the park. Tow Hill, formed of volcanic rock, which solidified about
2 million years ago into faceted basalt pillars, rises from the flat
bogs of the Argonaut Plain at the mouth of the Hiellen River. With
an elevation of 435 ft, the top of Tow Hill is almost the highest
point in the park. The interior of the park remains undeveloped. The
northern edge of Naikoon Provincial Park is a long stretch of sand
beach, dunes and surf. Agate Beach Campground , located near
Tow Hill, has picnic tables, fire pits, outhouses, drinking water
and a roofed kitchen shelter. The campsite is open year round. There
are also three small shelters along the east coast of the park. Naikoon
Provincial Park is 22 miles (35 km) north of Skidegate.
Misty Meadows Campground, located near the Naikoon Park headquarters
in Tlell, south of the Tlell
River, offers picnic tables, piped water, covered cooking shelter
and toilets, all within a short walk of the beach. A camping fee is
collected.
Masset Recreational Vehicle Park, located on the east side
of Masset on Tow Hill Road,
offers vehicle sites overlooking the Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary.
Power, TV hookups, flush toilets and showers are available. A fee
is collected, and the park is open year round.
Hayden Turner Park on the west side of Queen
Charlotte City offers fairly primitive vehicle/tent sites, plus
several walk-in campsites and a nice beachwalk.
Kagan Bay Forest Service Recreation Site, just west of Queen
Charlotte City, has beautiful user-maintained campsites in Kagan Bay,
with picnic tables and toilets. The campground is located 3 miles
(5 km) west of town on Honna Forest Service Road.
A private forestry road leads north from Queen Charlotte City, and
then west across Graham Island to the west coast, and a pair of Forest
Service campgrounds on Rennell
Sound. The Cone Head Forest Service Recreation Site has
space for vehicles/tents, and is about 9 miles (15 km) north, past
the Rennell Sound Forest Service Recreation Site. Rennell Sound
is the only point on the west coast accessible by road, but the final
descent from the alpine down to the shore is a startling 24% gradient,
one of the steepest public roads in North America. The Hill is not
suitable for large campers and trailers. Check your brakes before
making the steep descent down to the coast. The rugged coastline,
great hiking and excellent fishing make the trip to Rennell Sound
well worthwhile.
Moresby Island
Across Skidegate Inlet on Moresby Island lie four Forest Service campgrounds.
To find them, drive 9 miles (15 km) east from the ferry landing at
Alliford Bay to Sandspit. Follow the main road south from there as
it leads to two Forest Service campgrounds on the island's more sheltered
east coast. The Gray Bay Campground 13 miles (21 km) southeast
of Sandspit has two locations
and space for vehicles on the gorgeous beach south of Sandspit. A
smaller, vehicle campground on Sheldens Bay is located about
7 miles (11 km) farther south.
Southwest of Alliford Bay is the vehicle recreation site on Mosquito
Lake, 27 miles (44 km) from Sandspit, which offers a boat launch,
a day-use area and excellent trout fishing. At the head of the Cumshewa
Inlet is the vehicle campsite at Moresby
Camp, 4.5 miles (7 km) beyond Mosquito Lake. Moresby Camp is the
favoured location to launch small boats and kayaks to explore the
Gwaii Haanas/South Moresby Park Reserve, and offers good Coho and
Spring salmon fishing in the fall.
Gwaii Haanas National Park
Elsewhere in Haida Gwaii, camping is not organized. There are no formal
campgrounds in Gwaii Haanas National Park (managed by both Parks Canada
and the Council of the Haida Nation), because there is no road access
to the park. The park was formed in 1987 amidst a tense confrontation
that divided the island's population, as well as public opinion across
Canada and around the world. There are perhaps only 6,000 permanent
residents in Haida Gwaii, but 3 million people pledged their support
to see logging stopped in this area. At the height of the confrontation,
72 Haida were arrested and charged with criminal contempt of court,
an act that shocked the international community. In a gesture of good
faith, the Canadian government passed a resolution to support the
Haida's wishes, and Gwaii Haanas was formed.
Haida Gwaii Watchmen (Haida-appointed park wardens) have established
interpretive centres at significant visitor stopping places such as
Skedans, or K'una (outside park boundaries), Tanu (T'anuu), Windy
Bay (Hlk'waah), Hotspring Island (Gandla'kin), and Ninstints on Anthony
Island. For more information on ancient Haida villages, contact the
Haida Gwaii Watchmen, located beside the Haida Gwaii Museum at Qay'llnagaay
near BC Ferries' Skidegate landing.
Random camping is the rule in Gwaii Haanas. You camp where you please,
preferably on sand or stone, or wherever else you will have as little
impact as possible. Camping is not permitted at T'anuu Village, or
on Gandla'kin (Hotspring), Ata Naa (House), Copper, Jeffrey, Rankine,
or Skung Gwaii (Anthony) Islands, or Slug Islet. These areas are particularly
sensitive cultural sites or important bird-nesting areas. If in doubt,
ask at any of the Watchmen base camps. There is no camping at any
Haida Gwaii Watchmen site in the park except for Windy Bay, or Hik'yaah,
where the stand against logging was taken by the Haida Nation back
in the 1980s. |
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